I love building stuff – but honestly, i’m kinda lazy. For years i’ve been looking forward to the day when i could design something on a napkin, model it in the computer, then have a machine cut out all the bits for me to assemble. I wouldn’t have to measure, deal with wobbly cuts or wrangle huge metal blades. Now, i’ve finally been able to design and build a CNC Router that helps me do just that.
I should point out this is not a new invention or even a very original design – i scoured the internets and found others that had done similar things and incorporated the features that i liked. One website that was tremendously helpful was BuildYourCNC.com, which provided most of the mechanical and electrical parts all in one place for really good prices. Also, i wanted the frame to be nice and stiff and as accurate and easy to assemble as possible, so i borrowed an idea from Joe’s Hybrid 4×4 CNC Router and used 8020 extruded aluminum. I got the 8020 as surplus from 8020′s ebay store with some pretty good discounts. A few extra trips to Home Depot later and i had all the parts and was ready to assemble.
A lot of the homebuilt CNC routers or mills i found online were smaller, tabletop affairs. Many of these are great and honestly would have made my project quite a bit easier and cheaper. But i really wanted a machine big enough to handle materials large enough for human or outdoor scale projects. I wanted to be able to make thing like chairs or tables or planters or bicycle trailers – but also i wanted it to be precise enough to do small detailed things like circuit boards or 3d models. Also, I wanted to design my object, shove a standard sheet of plywood under the router and hit ‘make it!’ and start routing away. All these reasons evolved my Router design into the 4′ x 4′ chain driven model you see above.
Some aspects of my design that differ from Joe’s 4×4 design are the Chain Drive and the V-Groove bearings on aluminum rails, both inspired by the BuildYourCNC folks. Joe’s uses leadscrews or rack and pinion gearing – which both seem great and reliable methods. But after looking at prices for those components online, i decided to use 1/4 inch roller chain, held in tension, traversed by a sprocket mounted to my motor. According to the BuildYourCNC guys, this can eliminate most if not all of the backlash you see in rigid systems and offers good resolution and precision. It seems to be working pretty well so far – time will tell! Also, the BYCNC people sell a very nice V-Groove bearing – that is a roller bearing with a ‘V’ shaped channel cut into it’s hardened steel circumference. Normally these ride on special hardened v-shaped rails, but when talking with the BYCNC guys, they said their experience was by letting the hard v-groove bearings ride on the edges of standard extruded aluminum angle, the bearing traveling back and forth sort of ‘cold rolls’ the rails into the v shape, hardening them and polishing them. It seems to work great, the only downside being as the rails get ‘rolled’ down, the bearings need to be adjusted so they continue to make firm contact with the shrinking rails.
Ultimately. I want to make this the ultimate computer controlled multi-machine tool. Something that has a robotic toolhead that can automatically grab various tools to complete different tasks. Tools that come to mind besides the router are: Plasma Cutter (for more easily cutting heavy metal), a 3D extrusion print head (that can print objects out of deposited molten thermoplastic), a Vinyl Cutter(for cutting adhesive vinyl for signs, graphics, decals), a Cloth Cutter (for cutting out cloth patterns to sew), and a Laser Cutter head for cutting papers and laser engraving. a Pick and Place tool might be neat for moving things around, and assembling cut parts. And i’m sure i’ll think of other uses too.
The router works and does a pretty decent job to boot. There already a bunch of upgrades i would like to add (though most would say important things missing!). Those things include a cable support arm, a dust skirt and dust collection hose, a more appropriate, variable speed spindle (thinking about a Kress 800FME), a proper emergency stop button, limit/homing switches and a depth probe. One day when i’m rich it would be neat to add a 4th and 5th axis! But for now, surprisingly, even with all it’s lacking, the router is fairly accurate and robust and i’ve used it to crank out several nice pieces of work – mostly of the engraved sign variety, but also some unique shelves and table top sorts of things. Check out the build video (coming soon!) and detail pics below and check back for more projects produced on the CNC Router and to see how it grows and evolves.
The frames are made from 1 inch square tube steel. it’s pretty easy to cut, weld and grind. I started out cutting it with a tungsten carbide tipped saw blade that’s supposed to cut through all kinds of metal. it worked well for a while, but i’ve used it on other projects and i think it’s gotten dull. So, i got a combo pack of 10″ DeWalt miter saw blades – it had 2 carbide tipped 60 tooth finish blades so i set one up on the miter saw and gave it a go on the steel. It worked great! sliced right through with a nice clean cut and cool to the touch. Just like the more expensive ‘cool-cut’ saws. but after about 20 cuts, the blade started to poop out. The carbide alone is just not tough enough. Plus i read the real cool-cut saws actually spin at a much lower RPM (1800 or so) than your average miter saw – which run more like 5000. That probably wears it much quicker.
So, i just went and got a cheap abrasive cutoff blade. Yes, it’s crazy messy and stinky and hot and probably terrible for my poor little miter saw – but i only had a few cuts to go and it got the job done. I’ll scrub everything with a toothbrush and a shop-vac afterward = ).
With all the structural materials in hand and cut to size, the assembly can start. First step is to grind down all the steel to remove rust, oil and dirt as well as give it a nice brushed look. A final polish and clear sealant will came at the end to protect the bare steel from rust and scratches.
Next job is to weld all the steel members into sturdy frames. A large, flat table holds all the pieces flat and blocks keep all the pieces squared up and held tightly together to make a nice strong weld. After the corners are welded on one side, the welds are ground smooth, then the whole frame is flipped and the back side is welded then ground as well.
I’ve been contracted to design and build an entryway partition wall for my buddies’ visual effects studio. Here’s some images from the construction process.
Starting the build. First step, procuring materials…
Next, all the materials are cut to proper size. Jigs are used to ensure consistency and accuracy.







































